Now I only need bumperbrackets and a set of bumperbolts. I can’t use the brackets currently on the car as they have been welded to the painted bumpers.
I’m thinking of making new brackets myself. Shouldn’t be that hard.
Reconsider that lowering job. I had purchased my 55 Windsor like that. Bottomed out on every bump. Real sloppy when you turned. I just put new springs in all the way around. Raised the car about 1.5 inches and made a huge difference in the way it drives. Before I felt like I had to be ‘so careful’ about turning and going into driveways and omg a pot-hole would just shake the car to the core. Your car looks low and wide already. Those rims and tires would just be hidden by the fenders if you cut her ride height down. I wouldn’t recommend it. Just my two cents having been there. 🙂
I noticed your accents are very similiar to mine. 🙂 excellent!
Oh by the way. I have the 4bbl on my 55 301 poly. Love the way it runs. The secondaries really kick in and make a big difference. I have the stock 4bbl carter from a 56-57 I think. Secondaries are the same size as the primaries. Considering new headers and exhaust … or perhaps just getting a 331 or 354 and rebuilding that and bolting it in. 🙂
Hi, I would like to know what carb did you use on the 354(the four barrel one).
I used the original carb of the 413ci motor from my ’60 NewYorker.
This ment I didn’t have to enlarge the intake holes if I had used a new type Carter/Edelbrock carb.
Do you think that the Holley carb will fit right or I will have to enlarge the intake holes like you said?
And how many cfm has the carb you using ? Because I have a 354 ci Spitfire engine in a 1957 Chrysler Windsor 4 door Sedan but its only a 2 barrel so I want to upgrade it to 4 barrel but I don’t really know what carb to use, maybe the Holley will fit nicely I hope.
If it’s a ‘modern’ Holley, the intake holes will be too small.
You’ll either have to enlarge them, or use an adapter under the carb so the throttle valves will clear the manifold.
I’m not real sure how much cfm those older carbs have but I think it’s around 450-500 orso.
Take a look at my Windsor page. I’m still missing rear brake shields, a power steering pump & throttle linkage before I get my Windsor on the road again. It’ll be a restoration to the original looks.
Nice progress on your car there! Good work.
I can’t help you with the parts but I’m sure you should be able to find them at Big M’s salvage yard for instance.
Hi, could you explain me how you managed to drop the front and rear suspension on your chrysler? I want to drop my 1957 Windsor has well.
The front of the car is easily lowered by turning down the torsionbar adjusters in the transmission crossmember. Do about 2-4 turns at a time. Set the car back on it’s wheels in between, roll it back and forth a few feet and look at the stance.
(Take the weight of the front first while turning the adjusters to save the threads of the adjusters.) Turn both adjusters an equal amount.
The rear of the car can be lowered by installing lowering blocks between the rearaxle and the springs.
Summit sells 2″ or 3″ lowering kits for a later model Dodge Pickup which work nicely if you slightly change the diameter of the locating pin/nub on the blocks.
Hi, like you said it was easy but I was wondering, when you turn your wheels to they rub on the fenders?
And do you have dics brakes on your chrysler?
The wheels don’t hit the fenders when turning. Not even when taking a corner fast.
I still need to re-install the front swaybar on the car, but because it is lowered already, it doesn’t really roll that much in the corners anyway.
I think that’s also because the chassis is touching the bumpstop on the lower control arm then.
The Chrysler already had Wilwood discbrakes on it when I bought it. The ventilated brakerotors are 11.75″ in diameter and stop the car very well.
The Wilwood brakes was one of the reasons I actually bought the car.
Thank you for all your replies, it really helped be to lower my front end, here’s a picture of my car which I just lowered of about 2.5 inches.
With a large amount of lowering you have to understand the car will mostly be riding on the bumpstops, so make sure you check these often as they have a tendency to tear/crack open and fail. You don’t want metal to metal contact here.
Thanks for showing the photo.
What’s the color on this car? I’ve been trying to find a match to a 60’s era dragster and this looks really close.
I couldn’t tell you exactly what color this is as it was already on the car when I bought it.
I do know there’s a hint of red metallic in it.
I need a 57 poly two barrel carb. What type and condition do you have? Complete with choke?